Jackie's Obedience Page

Gadgets for Pullers

Does your dog drag you from pillar to post? If the answer is yes, then read on.

For some Boxer owners walking to the park is no joy when your dog pulls you every step of the way. Hence when you see gadgets on sale to cease pulling you are only too happy to part with your cash. There are all sorts of apparel out there and you may be lucky the first time and find a gadget that works for you and your dog.

How to prevent a dog from pulling is one of the commonest questions I am asked about dog training. I usually respond by recommending gadgets purely as a preventative measure, not a training method, which takes much more effort and a lot of time to instil. I like to see dogs on loose leads, but in the real world a dog in its excitement to get somewhere or check something out will pull and tighten its lead - it's only natural, but our reaction to follow the dog turns curious pulling into habitual behaviour. We do not always have the time to train, correctly check or stop moving forwards on the way to the park, which is why I advise training walking on a loose lead as a separate exercise, but at the same time do not allow the dog to drag you after it. If a dog learns certain rules whilst on the end of a lead they can still have their freedom to walk, sniff and not be at 'heel', but at the same time respect that you are holding the end of the lead.

There are various head collars on the market that work well in controlling avid pullers but not all are practical for Boxers and other short muzzled (brachycephalic) breeds, especially those with prominent eyes. Some Boxer noses fit these types of head collars, but some sit in a position that irritates the dog's eyes. Take the dog with you when you fit it on (initially difficult when the dog is not used to it, but persevere). Some are padded for comfort or adjustable and they act in a similar fashion to a head collar on a horse i.e. you have control of the head and the body will follow. Very often with the lead it is the dog's strength against yours; this is not the case with ahead collar, but remember your strength too and be gentle.

Harnesses are another gadget which can prevent pulling, but are not my favourite choice as some varieties can reinforce pulling. Again, adjust and try on the harness and walk the dog around gauging his reaction i.e. if there is pressure on the lead check to see if he is slowing down or moving back to your side. Avoid the thin string types which tighten - Boxers have deep chests and the string can pinch/chafe the thin skin in the pits of the fore limbs. Don't attach them to flexi-leads as the dog learns to pull thus building up the front legs and shoulders as the hind limbs, which are not being used in the same way, lose their muscles.

A half check collar is an excellent training aid to teach a dog not to pull on the lead and needs to be used with a suitable lead. Chain leads may be unlikely to break with a strong dog on the end of them or stop the dog from chewing through the lead, but they are very difficult to check a dog back with. Usually the owner will clasp the leather and the dog is already ahead of them by the end of the lead and pulling like a train. A long leather or rope lead is far easier on the hand and can be concertinaed up in your hand to allow you to check the dog in position easily. Use a toy or titbit to keep the dog's concentration on you whilst training and teaching him where the heel position is. Collars that work their way down the dog's neck almost onto the shoulder area need to be hitched up for proper control. Remember that the aim of teaching the heel position with your dog is on a loose lead, which is quickly checked and released back to being loose again when the dog moves out of position.

Remember to avoid constantly tight leads and that walk to the park will become much easier on the arms and a delight for both of you.

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Friendly Introductions: Cats and Dogs

"How can I get my cat to accept our new rescue Boxer" is a question I am often asked. Cats are generally long lived and can be well established in a household, then along comes a rescue Boxer and this once laid back cat turns into a spitting, hissing demon or flees to live with the neighbours!

It is very difficult explaining over the telephone and without seeing both the cat and dog's reactions to each other to assess whether the dog is being excitable or aggressive to the feline resident.

Rescue Boxers who are used to cats will usually have this information passed on by previous owners but will, more often than not, still be excited and inquisitive of a new cat. Likewise cats that are used to dogs will be wary of a strange one.

The very first introduction should be controlled and safe for both animals. Initially when you bring home your rescue Boxer you will want him to get used to his new surroundings and family, therefore meeting the cat should come later. Either lock the cat securely away in a room or in a cat crate where it will not see or hear the new dog. Following a couple of hours when the dog has familiarised himself with his new environment, then a controlled first meeting can take place. The dog will be able to smell the cat, but either let him smell the cat's bedding or your hand where you have stroked the cat. With the dog calm and on a lead walk him into a room with the cat either in a cage (raised off the floor and cover one end with a blanket so the cat does not feel exposed to danger) or where the cat can be on a high table or ledge. Calmly stroke the dog and reward him with food if he sits quietly, and especially praise him if he turns away from the cat uninterested. If the cat is in the basket it may shrink away and try to hide - this is fine, it will just take longer for the dog to realise a cat is there, don't try and force the cat out and if it is loose try to prevent it from fleeing as this will entice the dog to chase. When wary, most cats don't appreciate you stroking them or holding them so leave the cat in a high safe place where it can observe the dog. Be cautious if the cat allows the dog to sniff it take care that it doesn't take a swipe as Boxers' eyes are very prominent and are an easy target for cat claws.

It may take weeks for both species to get used to each other. The cat will need a safe haven within the house where the dog can't get to. Consider a stair gate so that the cat has free access upstairs away from the dog. Never leave the cat and dog on their own together until you are confident that they are used to each other.

Remember that initially Boxers who have been used to cats before may be obsessed with the new cat, but the novelty will soon wear off. Cats not used to dogs will be very frightened and may be untrusting of you for bringing the dog in. Continue rewarding the dog for calm behaviour in the cat's presence.

Unfortunately aggression from a dog towards a cat is very difficult to treat. If the dog's instinct were to try and harm the cat, then it would be unsafe to put a cat in that situation. I know that some greyhounds can be reconditioned from chasing cats, but this entails specialist behaviourist help and takes a great deal of time and training.

Dogs and cats are often portrayed as enemies, but can become best buddies - I speak from experience.

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Hyper v Hypo

If there is one thing that the Boxer is renowned for it is their exuberance and this is what I adore about the breed. Often owners of rescue dogs who ring for advice are those with what I call hyper dogs i.e. dogs that need to find a job to do otherwise they will find their own games usually at the owner's cost! This can be anything from destructive chewing, mouthing for attention, barking or digging. Some dogs are happy to mooch about most of the day and happily adjust to our busy lives, whilst others have a strong desire to burn off energy, which requires some training to try and channel it in a constructive way. This is both challenging and rewarding for the owner and dog alike.

Boxers are not always content with vast amounts of exercise to try and burn off high energy. Besides physical exercise making them fitter and them requiring more, I am a firm believer that mental stimulation is much more exhausting for them. Giving them something more constructive to do will make them more fulfilled, happier and keep those with a hyper dog sane. By constructive, yes obedience training classes with toys and titbits where it is fun for you and the dog and where they get to socialise with other dogs and handlers certainly works wonders on a dog's mind and behaviour. Agility also entails commands for the dog to obey in addition to the physical exercise - let him show you his natural athletic ability. Get your dog retrieving out on walks, again giving him a task and not just retrieving for himself, but as a game with your participation. Arrange walks with other dogs he enjoys playing with rather than just following you along with the only entertainment an odd sniff and sprint to catch you up if he hasn't passed you already. At home give him commands, such as recalls, stay exercises or practice a retrieve (ok, so Boxers are not natural born retrievers, but most will fetch their ball for you!). Play hide and seek either with yourself hiding or get the dog to sniff out a toy/sock/titbits hidden away in the house somewhere. A dog that has to concentrate on commands uses a lot of energy especially if his owner keeps him thinking and is full of surprises.

Energy burners for when you are out can be anything from a hollow chew toy stuffed with cheese to keep him amused or a treat ball for him to roll around. Try your best to keep his mind occupied and reap the rewards.

What do I say to those who despair that they have a hyper dog? Well, of course I start by telling them how lucky they are - give me a hyper dog any day.